A 180 from Hong Kong: Guide to Barcelona
Total “Call Me By Your Name” vibes (wrong country but same lush imagery etcetc). Not pictured: creepy onlooker snapping this pic lol
Barcelona is similar to Hong Kong in the sense that they are both coastal cities, surrounded by hills (the ones that I imagine ambitious people trot up during weekends) and have bustling city centers roadblocked by keen American & Asian tourists – oh hey, it me.
And that’s where many of the similarities end, because Barcelona is a complete 180 in terms of Hong Kong’s overall ethos – which is why two months after my trip I am still waxing poetic to my imaginary dog about this city and shifting through creepy photos I took of couples having a moment — i.e. above. Take me back!
Packing for a week in November
For November, I was envisioning a slightly cool, Mediterranean chill where espadrilles and sunnies would be casually worn, but weather forecasts suggested otherwise; rainy & 22C during the day, dropping to 12C at night. I was so pleased to bring a jacket, because I never get the opportunity to don my late autumnal wardrobe living in the tropics. Although like Hong Kong, most homes are not equipped with central heating, so pack warm in the winter months!
Luggage: I was briefed with aspirational stories from Asian auntie friends of people who smuggled an entire leg of ham from Spain back in their check-in luggage — thank heavens for lenient Hong Kong customs — and therefore went with a check-in size. I regrettably did not bring back a leg of Iberico ham but did haul an assortment of canned mussels, anchovies, and piquillo peppers. My only regret was not lugging back more. City Super, Hong Kong’s mammoth international grocery store, stocks the same quality products for double the price!
Prep work
Prior to going, my knowledge was kept to an embarrassing minimal. As in, much of what I imagined stems from “Vicky Christina Barcelona.” (Yes, I have separate anxieties about my re-consumption of Woody Allen produced things). I did pain free fundamentals though, which is listen to the podcast on Sagrila Familia on 99% Invisible and read up on Catalonia history and culture – this documentary on Netflix did a good job explaining nuances of the region.
Obviously you can 1) exchange money (a taxi from the airport to the city center costs around 20 Euro, but most taxis accept credit card, so cash isn’t a necessity) and 2) learn Spanish words. But I can’t say I managed to do the latter despite heavy consumption of “Elite” and “House of Flowers.” (Spanish language shows on Netflix lol). That said, getting by using purely English was a Mediterranean breeze! I definitely struggled more in western Germany, comparatively.
Things to do in Barcelona
(after you’ve checked off the top Gaudi sites, La Sagrada Familia, Casa Batllo, Park Güell , etc )
General stuff: Even if you suck at planning, book tickets online for the main sites in advance — especially for La Sagrada Familia. Tickets for most museums and Gaudi sites are a buck or three cheaper when you book online, money much better reserved for paella. La Sagrada Familia was actually sold out on the day I wanted to visit (lol I’m a procrastinator). Here are my favorite places visited, after completion of the tourist checklist. N.B.:I was advised by friends not to head to any Flamenco shows even though I secretly wanted to haha. I am a well seasoned traveler in Asia (well because I’ve lived here for a decade) but relatively newly minted in Europe. i.e. I’m pretty #basic.
Churches and Roman scatterings encountered on the Gothic walking tour
1. Walking tour to orient you into the city
I was elated everyday to check my steps at the end of the day – Barcelona is a city best enjoyed on foot. I based my decision on what walking tour to go on after reading this article. In the end, I went with the Free Tour of Barcelona offered by Sandemans.
My tour guide, Patrick Reyes, was phenomenal about spouting out historical facts about Barcelona et. region with the gusto and enthusiasm that I am capable of only when describing characteristics of the Kardashian siblings. Afterward I vowed to devote myself to studying European history post return. Did not happen, but learned so much on the tour about sites I otherwise would just gape at ignorantly, Santa Maria del Pi and the Santa Maria del Mar churches, enchanting Gothic Quarter, old Jewish Quarter, Roman temple etc. Don’t forget to tip your tour guide!
2. Barceloneta, for the sea views and more
While strolling, I saw this playground of sorts where young Adonises were just working out, nary a shirt in sight. I felt like it truly captured the raw, natural beauty of Barcelona. Also everyone I told about this park knew exactly what I was talking about — it’s a legit phenomenon — there are seats next to this park where you can just enjoy your coffee, pastry and the nice view.
3. Casa Vicens — the pretend-you-live-here Gaudi residence
Casa Batlló is lovely and opportune for cliche moments on the breathtaking roof view. But it’s also crowded with tourists getting off by the dozens from tour buses. And the rooms get pretty packed. Thus I would have to say Casa Vicens is my favorite Gaudi residence (and also the first house he designed)! I spent 2-3 hours ambling around this place pretending like it was my summertime home. Definitely pay for the guided tour. There’s also a lot of mirrors that make for good selfie opportunities. Jokes! (I mean I did take one so whatever). The neighborhood it’s in — Gràcia — has amazing shops, food and people watching.
Pls let me move in.
4. Montjuïc hike (day)
Daytime: Magnificent views of the sea, being surrounded by cactus, scenic gondala ride up, etc., pretending you’re an explorer of the universe. Once you get off the gondola, you can take a scenic stroll around the premises. Tbh, I got lost which is why I ended up walking around for 3 hours. But it was the best getting lost scenario ever!
Nighttime: There’s a popular nighttime show that’s listed as one of the main things to do in Barcelona. Unless you’re super bored (and want to do something free) I would skip this. This is the description courtesy of Trip Advisor: “A combination display of water, music and light which was originally built in 1929. It was restored in 1992 and provides a spectacular show every half hour.” But honestly, there was something awkward about having Miley Cyrus on full blast in the background during the “magic fountain show.” (I do love Miley though).
Look how cutie those cacti are!
5. Sant Antoni food market
The most famous food market is La Boqueria, which is in Las Ramblas, an area featured in all the tour guide books. I’m impartial to that area to be honest. Even though I went off peak season, it still felt quite touristy in the bad way . My favorite food market which I visited 3 times (also, on the weekend they have a book fair outside!) is Sant Antoni Market. It’s great for a snack, solo meal, or pit stop to pick up some olives.
Solo dining on a rainy day: yasss
6. Catch the sunset at Bunker Hill
This is sort of the place where teenagers or the younger millennials go to be effortlessly cool. So obviously I would never think of doing this naturally, but my cooler friend Iris, who had been living in Barcelona for a few months, and cultured travel blogger Bruno timed our trip up to see the sunset! The vibe & view are like, emoji 100%.
Spiderrrrmann — no, I do not know this guy lol.
Accommodations
I was lucky to crash at my friend’s place for the majority of the trip who was renting via Airbnb — a great option for this city! For the first night though, I stayed at H10. I would highly recommend this hotel chain because the price point is fair, their locations are central, and also you get free cava upon arrival.
One last standout: Shisha at Ziryab
Barcelona has some of the best shisha spots I have ever been to. The shisha culture is another topic, but basically I love how shisha / hookah bars are laid back with good music to encourage conversation amongst introverts feeling a bit extra extraverted that day. My friend and I went to this shisha bar, shamelessly (ok kind of shamefully, we felt a bit awkward) three days in a row. I think the owner is deaf and so are the staff, and it lends a different atmosphere to this friendly, accommodating joint: Ziryab Hookah Shisha Lounge.